Eastern Turkey: Van, Ani and Sümela – the undiscovered Turkey
Far from the tourist crowds, eastern Turkey hides lakes, medieval ruins and a cliffside monastery. Meet three of its gems.
Mention Turkey and most people think of Istanbul, Cappadocia or the beaches of Antalya. The east of the country remains off the usual routes – and that is precisely its charm. Here you will find vast plateaus, warm-hearted hosts and monuments you will often have almost to yourself.
Van: a lake, an island and Turkey’s most famous breakfast
Lake Van is the largest lake in Turkey, lying at more than 1,600 metres above sea level. Its water is salty and alkaline, and its colour shifts from turquoise to deep blue. On Akdamar Island stands the 10th-century Armenian Church of the Holy Cross, its façades decorated with exceptional stone reliefs of biblical scenes.
The city of Van is known for Van Fortress, an Urartian stronghold on a rock above the lake, and for the Van cat, often with eyes of two different colours. Don’t miss a Van breakfast either – a table laden with cheeses, honey, kaymak cream and fresh bread.
Ani: the city of a thousand and one churches
On a plateau above the river that forms the border with Armenia lie the ruins of Ani, the medieval capital of the Armenian Bagratid kingdom and an important stop on the trade routes. Its many churches earned it the name “city of a thousand and one churches”. Today a cathedral, churches, a mosque and city walls rise from the grass, and the site is inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
Sümela: the monastery on the cliff
In the forested mountains south of Trabzon, Sümela Monastery, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, clings to a sheer cliff. According to tradition it was founded in the 4th century, and for centuries its chapels and frescoes drew pilgrims. The approach alone, through the Altındere Valley, dense forest and drifting mist, is breathtaking.
Along the way: İshak Paşa Palace and Mount Ararat
Between Van and Kars, the road passes through Doğubayazıt, where İshak Paşa Palace rises on a hillside above the town. Construction began in the late 17th century and was completed in 1784; its architecture blends Ottoman, Persian and Seljuk influences. On clear days, Doğubayazıt offers views of the snow-capped summit of Mount Ararat, the highest mountain in Turkey.
When to go and what to pack
The best time for eastern Turkey is from late May to early October. Thanks to the altitude, days are pleasant and evenings cool, so pack layers and comfortable shoes for walking around archaeological sites. Distances are long, which makes an organised tour with private transport and a guide the most comfortable way to travel.
All three gems – together with Diyarbakır, Ahlat, İshak Paşa Palace and Erzurum – are linked by our Treasures of Eastern Turkey tour, with flights from Zagreb.
